After the trek, I headed northwest to Pai(another backpacker vortex). Some people I met here had been staying for 6 months when they only planned for a week. I met a belgian traveller named Werner, and we decided to rent motorbikes, 125cc for $2.50 for 24 hours... not bad. The roads here are switchbacks and very steep, which meant they were a lot of fun on the bikes. We ended up doing nearly 300km in the one day. We hit 3 caves, a waterfall, the long-neck Karen Villagers, and plenty of views of incredible scenery.
Naz and and Isralei traveller, Dan, convinced me yet again to do a guided trek, except this time it would be whitewater rafting. I had been 4 times this summer in America, and each time was progressivly harder. The problem with the Pai and Khong rivers is that nothing is rated over Class III, and since it was not rainy season, it would be hard to break a Class II.
However, the raftig company had a kyack, really a large plastic duckie for technical terms. They asked if I had ever ridden one before. I hadn't, but said I had, and they let me us that instead of going in the raft...
The river was pretty tame, so just like on the bamboo raft, the guides decided to jump from boat to boat and try to flip them. Since the rafts were heavy, they came after me most often. We passed hot springs, cobra snakes, vibrantly colored birds, and a cliff jumping spot, 10 meters.
There were two boats, and one boat had 2 guides(one had never been before and was getting trained), but on the other boat was Captain Danger(real name Thep). He had more people on the boat, but he went after every rock and hydrolic there was. He found a good one and threw three people out of the boat. Naz got sucked under the boat, and was not very happy until the end of the trip. Thep and I both ended up on they duckie, and we both managed to stand up(very hard to do). Thep wanted to practice flipping the duckie, which was nearly impossible, so he let me guide the raft the rest of the way back. I had never guided a raft either, but picked it up really quickly. There was nothing more than a class II, and I took easy routes, but the laid back atmosphere made the trip worthwhile.
Internet speeds in Pai are very slow, so I will not be able to upload pictures for a little while. I plan to goto Chaing Dao, and live with the villagers. I met another american who did the same thing, but it seems now there are more tourists in the area, and it will be harder to find a secluded village. It looks like I will end up spending my birthday living in a village somewhere. Then the trip back to Bangkok and Phnom Penn will have to be figured out...
l will try to send out an email, again to those of you not reading the blog with more detailed information. Plus some of the new travelers I have met do not know about this blog yet either.
later....
.: Ben Hansen :: 8:37 PM [+] 0 comments
Well, I'm in Chaing Mai, and things have calmed down a bit. So, I'll have to work backwards from what happened, because I missed posting while I was traveling north.
I told myself I wouldn't do the guided trek, but my traveling companions convinced me to come along. Now that I look back at it, I couldn't have done some of it without local knowledge. There was a guy at the hotel that wanted me to tag along with him and live with the villagers for a week, but who knows how that would have turned out.
So, I took a 3 day trek into the mountains to the west near the Myanmar border. The first village we hit was a major tourist stop, and the kids swarmed us and picked our pockets(we were told they would do this, so there was nothing for them to get from me). They loved being swung around and climbing on top of me. I got more dirty from playing with the kids that trekking. There were 9 of us plus 2 guides, and we all seemed to get along fine. We stayed in a hut suspended on a hillside and mattresses on the floor. Most of us ended up playing soccer in the field below while the guides went off to smoke opium.
Next day was more walking to an elephant camp, where I spent a gruelling hour getting thrown around on top of 'Tai-wa', our elephant. I had ridden camels before, so I knew this was coming, but I still enjoyed the novelty of it. We swam around a 10 foot waterfall and then camped in a similar hut.
Last day was spent hiking down from the mountains to bamboo raft down a shallow river. The first hour was peaceful and beautiful. Our guide got tired and decided we'd have boat wars, and whoever didn't get their raft flipped could eat lunch first. Right before the end, there was a dam, and we rode the rafts down the dam, I'd say a 30 degree angle.
Hiking through the jungle was such a different experience than the mountains and desert I've done before because of the humidity. I sweat so much, that it took a lot more out of me that I expected. I've gotten used to it now, so I feel confident of going off on my own in the next couple of days before I head down to cambodia.
The pictures of the trek and previous week will be up soon...
Remember to comment of each entry, and I'll answer any questions you guys have....
later...
"Same Same - Mueng Mueng" - Thai saying
.: Ben Hansen :: 5:00 AM [+] 0 comments
Well, I could have spent my whole time on Khoa San Rd, living a life of drunken debauchery, but instead have decided to get the hell outta this polluted city and get some fresh air in the countryside.
This will be a short submission, as the power has gone out(the whole street went dark) twice today.
I met an english girl from Liverpool named Naz on the road, and we hit it off and decided to share a room. She met 3 other english travelers and there is now a group of 5 of us all making the journey up to Chaing Mai to do some trekking... Me by myself, the rest with a tour group.
We stopped in Ayuthaya, the old capital of Thailand. We hired(rented... the english terms are rubbing off on me again) bikes and rode all through the temples and parks. We fed baby elephants some corn, convinced a boat driver to tour us around the canals... with a pit-stop for beer and cigarettes... and I captured a frog jumping through the streets. The bartender suggested we eat it, but since I was the only one willing, group consensus demanded we let it free(only to be eaten by another villager, as they eat alot of them).
I'll say the bus system is much better than my Morocco tales. Like Spain, the buses here have stewardesses, or bus attendants for the politically correct. I got a free meal at a roadside market, served soda, and watched scary Japanese/Thai anime on the television up front. Just like a plane flight, only bumpier.
I was thrilled to see more than just rice paddies, as there are MOUNTAINS in the background. I'd say they look similar to my Appalachian mountain back home in shape and height. I'm looking forward to getting out there, and I realized I don't need to go all the way up to Chaing Mai for a trek, but the decision to meet was already made.
I'd love to list all the things I've done, but I've left my journal in my bungalow and I can't possibly recite them all from memory. So, I'll leave that for the next post. Again, some of you have sent email asking why I haven't written. I plan only to use this blog, so it will be up to you to check this site(I'd say weekly).
There are a few more pics up at printroom, but the internet speeds are slow, and more will come when I get to a bigger city.
.: Ben Hansen :: 7:23 PM [+] 0 comments
I swear I could not make this stuff up... But before I get to that, lets start at the beginning.
My flight itinerary never showed a stop on my first leg, but I stopped in Seattle nevertheless. I wish I hadn't, because I had the entire 4 seat middle row to myself and was stretched out nice and comfy. The flight was 25 hours, enough said. Although, I proved I was not a terrorist by having to take off my shoes through the metal detectors in Newark. The guy in front of me thought it was a joke and would not take off his shoes. A large security guard suggested he follow orders. Enough said.
I was checked for SARS in Taiwan, temperature taken in my ear... I'm clean!
Bangkok has the strangest airport scenery. There is a golf course in between the runways. Only the air force is allowed to use it. Getting to Kho San Road was a long bus ride, cuz Bangkok is huge, urban sprawl on steroids. Khoa San road is the easiest place to stay, because its cheap and there are more foreigners than Thais here. I have to walk a bit to get anywhere closely resembling Asia. But, for my first night, I wasn't complaining. Because... I met Toffee..
I picked a Hotel with a rooftop... very important selection decision.. and I met Toffee up there. He is a 67 year old ex-patriot from Wales. From his discussion, I learned he was a member of the communist party, a gold miner, a ship jumper, and Loves to Talk! My first night was spent mostly listening to him, but I really didn't want to go out much as I was really tired.
Turns out I have arrived just before the APEC summit here in Bangkok, so the touts are on high alert for plenty of gullible tourists. I haven't been scammed yet, but I am learning quickly. I spent close to 3 dollars for a Tuk-tuk driver to show me every Wat, or Buddhist temple, in the old city area. Originally it was 1 dollar for 1 hour, but we spent 5 hours driving around(part of the time was taking me to clothing shops and travel agents, for commission).
I was told that it was impossible to go hiking for more than 3 days in the jungle... that was a VERY bad thing to say, it's like people are just egging me on... trying to get me to prove them wrong. But, its all part of the sales pitch. I've been to 3 different tourist offices, quoted 3 different prices, and told 3 totally different stories. So, everyone is trying to sell something here, and I'm just too nice to say no, but good luck trying to get any money from me. I let a guy go on a one hour pitch before walking outta the store. He chased me for almost 3 blocks...
BTW, I uploaded some pictures to my printroom account, they should be in the Thailand album. Some are for panorama pics to stitch together later, but I'm doing the touristy thing for the first few days, and I'll get some better ones up soon.
.: Ben Hansen :: 1:15 AM [+] 0 comments
I'm leaving home in Lynchburg, Va in about 3 hours as I write this last post from my home computer. My template is complete so the look of the page will stay the same unless I get a lot of free internet time overseas. This will be the longest planned travel period of 3 days(5 if you count the timezone crossover) to get from Virginia, USA to Bangkok, Thailand.
My parents threw a going away party on Fri, and I haven't gotten more than 3 hours of sleep since. My friend Mike came out camping at McAfee's Knob and Dragon's Tooth for the night. It was a cold night and my sleeping bag isn't rated too well. It should be fine for hot muggy rain showers, I think.
I spent all of Sun getting packed, and my backpack is substantially lighter than my last two trips. If I find a post office, I'll weigh it. There is only one train in and out of Lynchburg, and lucky me, mine leaves at 5:51 in the morning. So, I decided to stay up all night so I don't miss it. I figure my sleep rhythm will get knocked outta whack anyway, so I might as well have fun staying up.
Gauley pics still not up, but coming soon I hope.
.: Ben Hansen :: 11:48 PM [+] 0 comments
.AFOOT.and.light-hearted,.I.take.to.the.open.road,.Healthy,.free,.the.world.before.me,.The.long.brown.path.before.me,.le ading.wherever.I.choose....Henceforth.I.ask.not.good-fortune-I.myself.am.good.fortune;.Henceforth.I.whimper.no.more,.pos tpone.no.more,.need.nothing,..........Strong.and.content,.I.travel.the.open.road....The.earth-that.is.sufficient;.I.do.n ot.want.the.constellations.any.nearer;.I.know.they.are.very.well.where.they.are;.I.know.they.suffice.for.those.who.belon g.to.them.......Still.here.I.carry.my.old.delicious.burdens;.I.carry.them,.men.and.women-I.carry.them.with.me.wherever.I .go;.I.swear.it.is.impossible.for.me.to.get.rid.of.them;.I.am.fill'd.with.them,.and.I.will.fill.them.in.return.)....You. road.I.enter.upon.and.look.around!.I.believe.you.are.not.all.that.is.here;....I.believe.that.much.unseen.is.also.here... .Here.the.profound.lesson.of.reception,.neither.preference.or.denial;.The.black.with.his.woolly.head,.the.felon,.the.dis eas'd,.the.illiterate.person,.are.not.denied;.The.birth,.the.hasting.after.the.physician,.the.beggar's.tramp,.the.drunka rd's.stagger,.the.laughing.party.of.mechanics,.The.escaped.youth,.the.rich.person's.carriage,.the.fop,.the.eloping.coupl e,....The.early.market-man,.the.hearse,.the.moving.of.furniture.into.the.town,.the.return.back.from.the.town,.They.pass- I.also.pass-anything.passes-none.can.be.interdicted;.None.but.are.accepted-none.but.are.dear.to.me..You.air.that.serves. me.with.breath.to.speak!.You.objects.that.call.from.diffusion.my.meanings,.and.give.them.shape!....You.light.that.wraps. me.and.all.things.in.delicate.equable.showers!.You.paths.worn.in.the.irregular.hollows.by.the.roadsides!.I.think.you.are .latent.with.unseen.existences-you.are.so.dear.to.me....You.flagg'd.walks.of.the.cities!.you.strong.curbs.at.the.edges!. You.ferries!.you.planks.and.posts.of.wharves!.you.timber-lined.sides!.you.distant.ships!....You.rows.of.houses!.you.wind ow-pierc'd.façades!.you.roofs!.You.porches.and.entrances!.you.copings.and.iron.guards!.You.windows.whose.transparent.she lls.might.expose.so.much!.You.doors.and.ascending.steps!.you.arches!.You.gray.stones.of.interminable.pavements!.you.trod den.crossings!....From.all.that.has.been.near.you,.I.believe.you.have.imparted.to.yourselves,.and.now.would.impart.the.s ame.secretly.to.me;From.the.living.and.the.dead.I.think.you.have.peopled.your.impassive.surfaces,.and.the.spirits.thereo f.would.be.evident.and.amicable.with.me.....The.earth.expanding.right.hand.and.left.hand,.The.picture.alive,.every.part. in.its.best.light,.The.music.falling.in.where.it.is.wanted,.and.stopping.where.it.is.not.wanted,....The.cheerful.voice.o f.the.public.road-the.gay.fresh.sentiment.of.the.road....O.highway.I.travel!.O.public.road!.do.you.say.to.me,.Do.not.lea ve.me?.Do.you.say,.Venture.not?.If.you.leave.me,.you.are.lostDo.you.say,.I.am.already.prepared-I.am.well-beaten.and.unde nied-adhere.to.me?.O.public.road!.I.say.back,.I.am.not.afraid.to.leave.you-yet.I.love.you;....You.express.me.better.than .I.can.express.myself;.You.shall.be.more.to.me.than.my.poem....I.think.heroic.deeds.were.all.conceiv'd.in.the.open.air,. and.all.great.poems.also;.I.think.I.could.stop.here.myself,.and.do.miracles;.My.judgments,.thoughts,.I.henceforth.try.by .the.open.air,.the.road;)....I.think.whatever.I.shall.meet.on.the.road.I.shall.like,.and.whoever.beholds.me.shall.like.m e;.I.think.whoever.I.see.must.be.happy.....From.this.hour,.freedom!.From.this.hour.I.ordain.myself.loos'd.of.limits.and. imaginary.lines,.Going.where.I.list,.my.own.master,.total.and.absolute,....Listening.to.others,.and.considering.well.wha t.they.say,.Pausing,.searching,.receiving,.contemplating,.Gently,.but.with.undeniable.will,.divesting.myself.of.the.hold s.that.would.hold.me....I.inhale.great.draughts.of.space;.The.east.and.the.west.are.mine,.and.the.north.and.the.south.ar e.mine.......I.am.larger,.better.than.I.thought;.I.did.not.know.I.held.so.much.goodness....All.seems.beautiful.to.me;.I. can.repeat.over.to.men.and.women,.You.have.done.such.good.to.me,.I.would.do.the.same.to.you....I.will.recruit.for.myself .and.you.as.I.go;....I.will.scatter.myself.among.men.and.women.as.I.go;.I.will.toss.the.new.gladness.and.roughness.among .them;.Whoever.denies.me,.it.shall.not.trouble.me;.Whoever.accepts.me,.he.or.she.shall.be.blessed,.and.shall.bless.me... ..Now.if.a.thousand.perfect.men.were.to.appear,.it.would.not.amaze.me;....Now.if.a.thousand.beautiful.forms.of.women.app ear'd,.it.would.not.astonish.me....Now.I.see.the.secret.of.the.making.of.the.best.persons,.It.is.to.grow.in.the.open.air ,.and.to.eat.and.sleep.with.the.earth....Here.a.great.personal.deed.has.room;.A.great.deed.seizes.upon.the.hearts.of.the .whole.race.of.men,....Its.effusion.of.strength.and.will.overwhelms.law,.and.mocks.all.authority.and.all.argument.agains t.it....Here.is.the.test.of.wisdom;.Wisdom.is.not.finally.tested.in.schools;.Wisdom.cannot.be.pass'd.from.one.having.it, .to.another.not.having.it;.Wisdom.is.of.the.Soul,.is.not.susceptible.of.proof,.is.its.own.proof,....Applies.to.all.stage s.and.objects.and.qualities,.and.is.content,.Is.the.certainty.of.the.reality.and.immortality.of.things,.and.the.excellen ce.of.things;.Something.there.is.in.the.float.of.the.sight.of.things.that.provokes.it.out.of.the.Soul...Now.I.reëxamine. philosophies.and.religions,They.may.prove.well.in.lecture-rooms,.yet.not.prove.at.all.under.the.spacious.clouds,.and.alo ng.the.landscape.and.flowing.currents.......Here.is.realization;.Here.is.a.man.tallied-he.realizes.here.what.he.has.in.h im;.The.past,.the.future,.majesty,.love-if.they.are.vacant.of.you,.you.are.vacant.of.them....Only.the.kernel.of.every.ob ject.nourishes;.Where.is.he.who.tears.off.the.husks.for.you.and.me?....Where.is.he.that.undoes.stratagems.and.envelopes. for.you.and.me?...Here.is.adhesiveness-it.is.not.previously.fashion'd-it.is.apropos;.Do.you.know.what.it.is,.as.you.pass ,.to.be.loved.by.strangers?.Do.you.know.the.talk.of.those.turning.eye-balls?....Here.is.the.efflux.of.the.Soul;....The.e fflux.of.the.Soul.comes.from.within,.through.embower'd.gates,.ever.provoking.questions:.These.yearnings,.why.are.they?.T hese.thoughts.in.the.darkness,.why.are.they?.Why.are.there.men.and.women.that.while.they.are.nigh.me,.the.sun-light.expa nds.my.blood?.Why,.when.they.leave.me,.do.my.pennants.of.joy.sink.flat.and.lank?.Why.are.there.trees.I.never.walk.under, .but.large.and.melodious.thoughts.descend.upon.me?....I.think.they.hang.there.winter.and.summer.on.those.trees,.and.alwa ys.drop.fruit.as.I.pass;).What.is.it.I.interchange.so.suddenly.with.strangers?.What.with.some.driver,.as.I.ride.on.the.s eat.by.his.side?.What.with.some.fisherman,.drawing.his.seine.by.the.shore,.as.I.walk.by,.and.pause?.What.gives.me.to.be. free.to.a.woman's.or.man's.good-will?.What.gives.them.to.be.free.to.mine?.......The.efflux.of.the.Soul.is.happiness-here .is.happiness;.I.think.it.pervades.the.open.air,.waiting.at.all.times;.Now.it.flows.unto.us-we.are.rightly.charged....He re.rises.the.fluid.and.attaching.character;.The.fluid.and.attaching.character.is.the.freshness.and.sweetness.of.man.and. woman;....The.herbs.of.the.morning.sprout.no.fresher.and.sweeter.every.day.out.of.the.roots.of.themselves,.than.it.sprou ts.fresh.and.sweet.continually.out.of.itself.)...Toward.the.fluid.and.attaching.character.exudes.the.sweat.of.the.love.o f.young.and.old;.From.it.falls.distill'd.the.charm.that.mocks.beauty.and.attainments;.Toward.it.heaves.the.shuddering.lo nging.ache.of.contact.....Allons!.whoever.you.are,.come.travel.with.me!....Traveling.with.me,.you.find.what.never.tires. ...The.earth.never.tires;.The.earth.is.rude,.silent,.incomprehensible.at.first-Nature.is.rude.and.incomprehensible.at.fi rst;.Be.not.discouraged-keep.on-there.are.divine.things,.well.envelop'd;.I.swear.to.you.there.are.divine.things.more.bea utiful.than.words.can.tell.......Allons!.we.must.not.stop.here!.However.sweet.these.laid-up.stores-however.convenient.th is.dwelling,.we.cannot.remain.here;.However.shelter'd.this.port,.and.however.calm.these.waters,.we.must.not.anchor.here; .However.welcome.the.hospitality.that.surrounds.us,.we.are.permitted.to.receive.it.but.a.little.while......Allons!.the.i nducements.shall.be.greater;....We.will.sail.pathless.and.wild.seas;.We.will.go.where.winds.blow,.waves.dash,.and.the.Ya nkee.clipper.speeds.by.under.full.sail....Allons!.with.power,.liberty,.the.earth,.the.elements!.Health,.defiance,.gayety ,.self-esteem,.curiosity;.Allons!.from.all.formules!....From.your.formules,.O.bat-eyed.and.materialistic.priests!...The. stale.cadaver.blocks.up.the.passage-the.burial.waits.no.longer....Allons!.yet.take.warning!.He.traveling.with.me.needs.t he.best.blood,.thews,.endurance;.None.may.come.to.the.trial,.till.he.or.she.bring.courage.and.health.......Come.not.here .if.you.have.already.spent.the.best.of.yourself;.Only.those.may.come,.who.come.in.sweet.and.determin'd.bodies;.No.diseas 'd.person-no.rum-drinker.or.venereal.taint.is.permitted.here....I.and.mine.do.not.convince.by.arguments,.similes,.rhymes ;.We.convince.by.our.presence.........Listen!.I.will.be.honest.with.you;.I.do.not.offer.the.old.smooth.prizes,.but.offer .rough.new.prizes;.These.are.the.days.that.must.happen.to.you:...You.shall.not.heap.up.what.is.call'd.riches,.You.shall. scatter.with.lavish.hand.all.that.you.earn.or.achieve,....You.but.arrive.at.the.city.to.which.you.were.destin'd-you.hard ly.settle.yourself.to.satisfaction,.before.you.are.call'd.by.an.irresistible.call.to.depart,.You.shall.be.treated.to.the