:: December 03, 2003 ::

Life in Phnom Penh
Been busy lately, so this will entry will try to catch everyone up...


Nov 15th was the day I found my apartment. It is geographically located in the center of town. I am on the top floor, 3 stories up. I have a balcony, den, A/C bedroom, kitchen and bathroom. Very tall ceilings, so no chance of me bumping my head. $150 per month, plus electricity. I get water, cable, gas, and a personal guard at the gate for free. The family that owns the building is Korean, and they use most of their home as storage for products(mostly beer) that get shipped in and out to somewhere. So, I pass by them everyday and they let me in and out of the building. I am paying a little more than I wanted, but it came fully furnished, which most other apartments did not do. The only drawbacks of the place are: there is a disco across the street that plays cheesy music and khmer kereoke, there is a pig slaughter house near and you can hear pigs squealing, and the dust seems to settle everywhere, so things are always dirty. But the wind cools things down, so i don't mind the dirt so much

I have had friends, Omri, Steve, Nasra, stay over at my place, so I needed an extra key made. I couldn't explain to the family what I wanted(they speak no english). So, I went out to the market to look for a locksmith. A moto guy had a little locksmith workshop on the back of his bike. For $.50 I got a copy made. Back in the states, they use a machine to copy the etchings on the key. Not in Cambodia... The guy got out a file, eyeballed it, and started filing away. He banged out an exact copy.

The sun comes up at 5:30 in the morning and sets about 5:30 in the evening. So, most people are up at 4 or 5 in the morning, and by 7 it is very busy. Being by myself, I got up when everyone else did. However, with all my friends staying over and sleeping in, 11:00 seems to be the earliest time we get outside... The problem with that is, that most of the people here take a siesta from 11-3. It's too damn hot. Much like Morocco, everything officially is open, but no one will acknowledge your presence or serve you. So, most people sleep. Restaurants fall into this category(except markets), so you can't even eat during this time. At least not in the cheap places.


Speaking of food... Add cow brain and eyeball to the list. I keep going out asking for the snake soup, but no restaurant ever seems to keep much snake in stock. The duck fetus soup is another dish I've been told to try. But when I'm not grossing out my traveler friends, I usually eat rice and meat at the street vender stalls. A medium size plate only costs $.50, and you get free tea and peanuts if you sit at their temporary tables. The food is fine, and I can try something new everyday.

-------------------------
"You want boom-boom?"
-------------------------

I had been in Phnom Penn for nearly 3 weeks and had not been to the Heart of Darkness(know as "the heart" by the locals). It is really nothing much to describe, just a little bar with a pool table and dance floor. However, there is about a 5:1 ratio of prostitutes to tourist. They are called bar girls or taxi girls, because they have to pay to get in, while westerners get in free. Literally within 5 seconds of walking in the door, a girl walks up and asks, "You want boom boom"? It's not looked down upon so much in this culture, but the novelty of sitting back and watching these girls fight over the guys was entertaining. They will slap and push each other around trying to get closer to the men so they can negotiate a price. I've been told there is a shooting there about every 6 months, and the police come and threaten to close it down. It is so popular though, so it seems that will never happen. I've been there once, and the novelty was all I was looking for. The cambodian nightclubs have and much more energetic and interesting atmosphere.

So, I've been walking(a near impossible task due to the frustration brought upon by the hundreds of moto drivers than annoy the hell out of me asking if i want a ride) the entire time here in phnom penn. I decided that I could see some of the outskirts of town if I rented a moped. $3, no insurance or helmet. Not 5 minutes of driving and I get stopped by the traffic police. Now, the way cambodians drive, I assumed there were no laws. They drive on the left or right, or wherever there are not potholes. For all the madness and chaotic driving patterns, after a while, it all makes sense. The traffic rarely stops, and everything flows at a steady slow pace. The main reason being that all the mopeds are really old and poorly maintained.

Anyway, I was told that the police will try to weasel some money from tourists. The most you should pay was $1. I got stopped for an illegal left turn. If I had actually turned left within 500 meters from where the policeman was, maybe I could justify whatever he was trying to tell me. The fact was, I was driving straight and never turned left. I think that was the only english he knew, so that is the crime that everyone commits... turning left. Anyway we started out at a $20 fine, but I started to get angry and if it were not for the army soldier with the ak-47, I probably would have just driven off. I've been told that you just ignore the traffic cops, they don't have guns, and they won't chase you. So, I worked him down to $1.50 after 20 minutes and vowed not to rent a moto for a while.

There seems to be a traffic accident everyday here. Just today, there was a guy laying in the middle of the street after he crashed his moto. A mob of rubberneckers had surrounded him, but no one was helping him. A policeman showed up, but all he did was direct traffic. No ambulance ever came, and the guy was in and out of consciousness and looked pretty beat up.

--------------------------
How to work in Cambodia
--------------------------

So, I had contacted a school APIS about work and was told there would need people all the time. I talked to a guy named Steve. When I got here, I called him up, but he was working for a different school. However, he was very helpful and gave me loads of contacts to follow up on. I went to at least 20 schools. Pretty much the standard response was, "We are in the middle of the semester, come back later". I only had an email address, and was told that it was necessary to have a mobile phone so they could contact you. What happens is a teacher decides to leave, and they go through a list of people and will call up whoever is available. So, all that work for nothing because I didn't have a phone. I quickly bought a phone and had to go back to all the same schools to drop off my cell number.

No luck for almost 2 weeks, but I had my friends over, so I was spending alot of time with them instead of looking for work. I finally found a school that would offer me hours, but the director was a creep. He kept asking if I knew any american girls who wanted to work. So, I got the impression that if any showed up, I would quickly lose my job. But, since I had nothing else lined up, I said I'd sit in on a couple of classes. I was told by the other teachers that the director gives you a list of kids who have already passed the tests, before you even give them the test. It just shows how deep some of the bribery and corruption goes here. Plus, I was told that the schools don't always pay the teachers on time, or at all at some places. Just when I was about to sign the teaching contract, APIS calls me up and asks if I can come in for interview.

Kwesi is the name of the new director, and he called me in at 9:00am. This school is not run by a Khmer, so most of the shady business doesn't go on here. I talked to him for maybe 3 minutes and he says, "When can you start?" I said as soon as possible. He said, "We have a class starting at 1:00pm today, you can have that class."

So, they gave me a uniform, showed me how to clock in, gave me the lesson books, and threw me into a classroom of about 6 kids, age 15-25. I had no experience and no clue what to do. I basically answered all the kids questions, because when a new teacher comes, they want to know all about you. So, I really didn't even teach the first day, just talked to them.

Now, after 3 days of working there, I have been given more hours, and I teach elementary kids too. I have to give a test every week, but most of the kids just want to play games and talk.

That should be enough for now, at least until I figure out more about the schools and how many hours I eventually end up teaching. More to come!!!



.: Ben Hansen :: 5:51 AM [+] 0 comments
.: Email : :: Current Location : Breckenridge, Colorado :.





.AFOOT.and.light-hearted,.I.take.to.the.open.road,.Healthy,.free,.the.world.before.me,.The.long.brown.path.before.me,.le
ading.wherever.I.choose....Henceforth.I.ask.not.good-fortune-I.myself.am.good.fortune;.Henceforth.I.whimper.no.more,.pos
tpone.no.more,.need.nothing,..........Strong.and.content,.I.travel.the.open.road....The.earth-that.is.sufficient;.I.do.n
ot.want.the.constellations.any.nearer;.I.know.they.are.very.well.where.they.are;.I.know.they.suffice.for.those.who.belon
g.to.them.......Still.here.I.carry.my.old.delicious.burdens;.I.carry.them,.men.and.women-I.carry.them.with.me.wherever.I
.go;.I.swear.it.is.impossible.for.me.to.get.rid.of.them;.I.am.fill'd.with.them,.and.I.will.fill.them.in.return.)....You.
road.I.enter.upon.and.look.around!.I.believe.you.are.not.all.that.is.here;....I.believe.that.much.unseen.is.also.here...
.Here.the.profound.lesson.of.reception,.neither.preference.or.denial;.The.black.with.his.woolly.head,.the.felon,.the.dis
eas'd,.the.illiterate.person,.are.not.denied;.The.birth,.the.hasting.after.the.physician,.the.beggar's.tramp,.the.drunka
rd's.stagger,.the.laughing.party.of.mechanics,.The.escaped.youth,.the.rich.person's.carriage,.the.fop,.the.eloping.coupl
e,....The.early.market-man,.the.hearse,.the.moving.of.furniture.into.the.town,.the.return.back.from.the.town,.They.pass-
I.also.pass-anything.passes-none.can.be.interdicted;.None.but.are.accepted-none.but.are.dear.to.me..You.air.that.serves.
me.with.breath.to.speak!.You.objects.that.call.from.diffusion.my.meanings,.and.give.them.shape!....You.light.that.wraps.
me.and.all.things.in.delicate.equable.showers!.You.paths.worn.in.the.irregular.hollows.by.the.roadsides!.I.think.you.are
.latent.with.unseen.existences-you.are.so.dear.to.me....You.flagg'd.walks.of.the.cities!.you.strong.curbs.at.the.edges!.
You.ferries!.you.planks.and.posts.of.wharves!.you.timber-lined.sides!.you.distant.ships!....You.rows.of.houses!.you.wind
ow-pierc'd.façades!.you.roofs!.You.porches.and.entrances!.you.copings.and.iron.guards!.You.windows.whose.transparent.she
lls.might.expose.so.much!.You.doors.and.ascending.steps!.you.arches!.You.gray.stones.of.interminable.pavements!.you.trod
den.crossings!....From.all.that.has.been.near.you,.I.believe.you.have.imparted.to.yourselves,.and.now.would.impart.the.s
ame.secretly.to.me;From.the.living.and.the.dead.I.think.you.have.peopled.your.impassive.surfaces,.and.the.spirits.thereo
f.would.be.evident.and.amicable.with.me.....The.earth.expanding.right.hand.and.left.hand,.The.picture.alive,.every.part.
in.its.best.light,.The.music.falling.in.where.it.is.wanted,.and.stopping.where.it.is.not.wanted,....The.cheerful.voice.o
f.the.public.road-the.gay.fresh.sentiment.of.the.road....O.highway.I.travel!.O.public.road!.do.you.say.to.me,.Do.not.lea
ve.me?.Do.you.say,.Venture.not?.If.you.leave.me,.you.are.lostDo.you.say,.I.am.already.prepared-I.am.well-beaten.and.unde
nied-adhere.to.me?.O.public.road!.I.say.back,.I.am.not.afraid.to.leave.you-yet.I.love.you;....You.express.me.better.than
.I.can.express.myself;.You.shall.be.more.to.me.than.my.poem....I.think.heroic.deeds.were.all.conceiv'd.in.the.open.air,.
and.all.great.poems.also;.I.think.I.could.stop.here.myself,.and.do.miracles;.My.judgments,.thoughts,.I.henceforth.try.by
.the.open.air,.the.road;)....I.think.whatever.I.shall.meet.on.the.road.I.shall.like,.and.whoever.beholds.me.shall.like.m
e;.I.think.whoever.I.see.must.be.happy.....From.this.hour,.freedom!.From.this.hour.I.ordain.myself.loos'd.of.limits.and.
imaginary.lines,.Going.where.I.list,.my.own.master,.total.and.absolute,....Listening.to.others,.and.considering.well.wha
t.they.say,.Pausing,.searching,.receiving,.contemplating,.Gently,.but.with.undeniable.will,.divesting.myself.of.the.hold
s.that.would.hold.me....I.inhale.great.draughts.of.space;.The.east.and.the.west.are.mine,.and.the.north.and.the.south.ar
e.mine.......I.am.larger,.better.than.I.thought;.I.did.not.know.I.held.so.much.goodness....All.seems.beautiful.to.me;.I.
can.repeat.over.to.men.and.women,.You.have.done.such.good.to.me,.I.would.do.the.same.to.you....I.will.recruit.for.myself
.and.you.as.I.go;....I.will.scatter.myself.among.men.and.women.as.I.go;.I.will.toss.the.new.gladness.and.roughness.among
.them;.Whoever.denies.me,.it.shall.not.trouble.me;.Whoever.accepts.me,.he.or.she.shall.be.blessed,.and.shall.bless.me...
..Now.if.a.thousand.perfect.men.were.to.appear,.it.would.not.amaze.me;....Now.if.a.thousand.beautiful.forms.of.women.app
ear'd,.it.would.not.astonish.me....Now.I.see.the.secret.of.the.making.of.the.best.persons,.It.is.to.grow.in.the.open.air
,.and.to.eat.and.sleep.with.the.earth....Here.a.great.personal.deed.has.room;.A.great.deed.seizes.upon.the.hearts.of.the
.whole.race.of.men,....Its.effusion.of.strength.and.will.overwhelms.law,.and.mocks.all.authority.and.all.argument.agains
t.it....Here.is.the.test.of.wisdom;.Wisdom.is.not.finally.tested.in.schools;.Wisdom.cannot.be.pass'd.from.one.having.it,
.to.another.not.having.it;.Wisdom.is.of.the.Soul,.is.not.susceptible.of.proof,.is.its.own.proof,....Applies.to.all.stage
s.and.objects.and.qualities,.and.is.content,.Is.the.certainty.of.the.reality.and.immortality.of.things,.and.the.excellen
ce.of.things;.Something.there.is.in.the.float.of.the.sight.of.things.that.provokes.it.out.of.the.Soul...Now.I.reëxamine.
philosophies.and.religions,They.may.prove.well.in.lecture-rooms,.yet.not.prove.at.all.under.the.spacious.clouds,.and.alo
ng.the.landscape.and.flowing.currents.......Here.is.realization;.Here.is.a.man.tallied-he.realizes.here.what.he.has.in.h
im;.The.past,.the.future,.majesty,.love-if.they.are.vacant.of.you,.you.are.vacant.of.them....Only.the.kernel.of.every.ob
ject.nourishes;.Where.is.he.who.tears.off.the.husks.for.you.and.me?....Where.is.he.that.undoes.stratagems.and.envelopes.
for.you.and.me?...Here.is.adhesiveness-it.is.not.previously.fashion'd-it.is.apropos;.Do.you.know.what.it.is,.as.you.pass
,.to.be.loved.by.strangers?.Do.you.know.the.talk.of.those.turning.eye-balls?....Here.is.the.efflux.of.the.Soul;....The.e
fflux.of.the.Soul.comes.from.within,.through.embower'd.gates,.ever.provoking.questions:.These.yearnings,.why.are.they?.T
hese.thoughts.in.the.darkness,.why.are.they?.Why.are.there.men.and.women.that.while.they.are.nigh.me,.the.sun-light.expa
nds.my.blood?.Why,.when.they.leave.me,.do.my.pennants.of.joy.sink.flat.and.lank?.Why.are.there.trees.I.never.walk.under,
.but.large.and.melodious.thoughts.descend.upon.me?....I.think.they.hang.there.winter.and.summer.on.those.trees,.and.alwa
ys.drop.fruit.as.I.pass;).What.is.it.I.interchange.so.suddenly.with.strangers?.What.with.some.driver,.as.I.ride.on.the.s
eat.by.his.side?.What.with.some.fisherman,.drawing.his.seine.by.the.shore,.as.I.walk.by,.and.pause?.What.gives.me.to.be.
free.to.a.woman's.or.man's.good-will?.What.gives.them.to.be.free.to.mine?.......The.efflux.of.the.Soul.is.happiness-here
.is.happiness;.I.think.it.pervades.the.open.air,.waiting.at.all.times;.Now.it.flows.unto.us-we.are.rightly.charged....He
re.rises.the.fluid.and.attaching.character;.The.fluid.and.attaching.character.is.the.freshness.and.sweetness.of.man.and.
woman;....The.herbs.of.the.morning.sprout.no.fresher.and.sweeter.every.day.out.of.the.roots.of.themselves,.than.it.sprou
ts.fresh.and.sweet.continually.out.of.itself.)...Toward.the.fluid.and.attaching.character.exudes.the.sweat.of.the.love.o

f.young.and.old;.From.it.falls.distill'd.the.charm.that.mocks.beauty.and.attainments;.Toward.it.heaves.the.shuddering.lo
nging.ache.of.contact.....Allons!.whoever.you.are,.come.travel.with.me!....Traveling.with.me,.you.find.what.never.tires.
...The.earth.never.tires;.The.earth.is.rude,.silent,.incomprehensible.at.first-Nature.is.rude.and.incomprehensible.at.fi
rst;.Be.not.discouraged-keep.on-there.are.divine.things,.well.envelop'd;.I.swear.to.you.there.are.divine.things.more.bea
utiful.than.words.can.tell.......Allons!.we.must.not.stop.here!.However.sweet.these.laid-up.stores-however.convenient.th
is.dwelling,.we.cannot.remain.here;.However.shelter'd.this.port,.and.however.calm.these.waters,.we.must.not.anchor.here;
.However.welcome.the.hospitality.that.surrounds.us,.we.are.permitted.to.receive.it.but.a.little.while......Allons!.the.i
nducements.shall.be.greater;....We.will.sail.pathless.and.wild.seas;.We.will.go.where.winds.blow,.waves.dash,.and.the.Ya
nkee.clipper.speeds.by.under.full.sail....Allons!.with.power,.liberty,.the.earth,.the.elements!.Health,.defiance,.gayety
,.self-esteem,.curiosity;.Allons!.from.all.formules!....From.your.formules,.O.bat-eyed.and.materialistic.priests!...The.
stale.cadaver.blocks.up.the.passage-the.burial.waits.no.longer....Allons!.yet.take.warning!.He.traveling.with.me.needs.t
he.best.blood,.thews,.endurance;.None.may.come.to.the.trial,.till.he.or.she.bring.courage.and.health.......Come.not.here
.if.you.have.already.spent.the.best.of.yourself;.Only.those.may.come,.who.come.in.sweet.and.determin'd.bodies;.No.diseas
'd.person-no.rum-drinker.or.venereal.taint.is.permitted.here....I.and.mine.do.not.convince.by.arguments,.similes,.rhymes
;.We.convince.by.our.presence.........Listen!.I.will.be.honest.with.you;.I.do.not.offer.the.old.smooth.prizes,.but.offer
.rough.new.prizes;.These.are.the.days.that.must.happen.to.you:...You.shall.not.heap.up.what.is.call'd.riches,.You.shall.
scatter.with.lavish.hand.all.that.you.earn.or.achieve,....You.but.arrive.at.the.city.to.which.you.were.destin'd-you.hard
ly.settle.yourself.to.satisfaction,.before.you.are.call'd.by.an.irresistible.call.to.depart,.You.shall.be.treated.to.the
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