:: January 25, 2004 ::

Gong Xi Fa Cai
I want to wish you all a Happy Chinese New Year (Gong Xi Fa Cai). As you may remember, I am not Chinese, but while I'm here, I feel I should join along with the festivities. It's the #2 new year, with one more to go in April. I get three new years for the hangover price of 10. There are pictures included in the text below, if you want to follow along just click on the highlighted text.

My bicycle was stolen last friday, so I have been walking to school. It's nicer, because it's dark and cool. I pass a pagoda, and have been meeting lots of the monks that do their morning exercises. I'm looking for a new one, but since they only cost at most $20, I'm not in any rush.

I was supposed to teach class on Wednesday, but all the students took an unofficial holiday, which would be Chinese new year's eve. Some students gave me (Ta eiell) or Red Pockets. Tradition is that you put a small amount of money in and give to friends and family.

So, I went with Tin, my moto friend to the countryside. It was good to get out of the city, because I live next to a chinese school, and all the kids were beating on drums and dancing and generally making as much noise as they could. Lots of firecrackers as well.

Tin's village is in the Preahsan province, and his wife's village is on the border for Kondal and Kompong Cham provinces. They are separated by a branch of the Mekong River, and most of the prosperous villages are along this side river. Tin's village is not on the river, and much poorer. All the roads are very bad and were not easy to navigate

I first was introduced to his uncle who runs a lumber business. Tin has more relatives than I could keep track of. In the morning on new years eve, food and fake money is offered as a sacrifice in a temporary alter for all family members that have died. They showed me the ritual, and I followed suit. It was very peaceful, and a nice gesture.

After that, it was a non-stop drinking marathon.... Rice wine as well. I was the only foreigner within 40 miles, so I was the novelty celebrity for the weekend. Drinking with Khmers is full-on, as they drink in a circle, and if you break the circle or refuse a drink, they are very offended and will forcefully make you drink. So, after hours of trying not to drink, I finally gave in and got very drunk. Tin was my interpreter the whole time, so I didn't speak much Khmer. After it got dark, it turned into Halloween. We went around from house to house(all the ones Tin knew) and went inside, said hello, took a shot of rice wine, and then accepted bananas, mangos, and rice wrapped in banana leaf. We had so much booty, we had to go home twice and start over again. It was like being a kid again, just no candy.

Chinese New Year was spend recovering and travelling to Tin's village. His mother and cousin were very poor, so could not celebrate or offer food. Instead, we went to Tin's brother's place, and organized a shared party with a group of houses. I paid the huge sum of $10 for food and drink. It's amazing that that was all that was needed. A duck was slaughtered in my honor, and I helped prepare it for cooking. Everything was festive until the conversation moved to Pol Pot. Both men had their fathers murdered by them, and they asked my opinion. I tried to console them, but nothing Tin translated seemed to make sense to them, and things got a little tense. His cousin had water dumped on him to sober him up. Tin understood and we left for a little while, some kids followed me and walked in his pagoda where he had been a monk. There was a mural that was dedicated to Tin(for a small fee) along with other murals from the villagers

The monks were flying a kite that made music by vibrating a string on the kite. The pagoda was very peaceful and it was a nice change to stop drinking. However, Tin came back and said that I was invited to the big dance in the center of town. News had spread quickly about my arrival.

We entered a square with a stage and HUGE speakers. For such a poor village, they didn't skimp on the sound system. I was forced onstage and had to give a short speech. Tin translated for me, but everyone just stared and gawked at me. A few people, mostly kids, came up and wanted to dance with me. This all went of for what seemed hours. Tin's brother was having a party, and we were supposed to drive to another village to meet his party.

However, Tin's moped does not have a working headlight(like most of the bikes around). So, there was no electricity or moon, so there was no way that I could see. Tin said he could do it, but we didn't make it more than 100 meters out of the city before he crashed. This sobered him up a little, and we headed back to his mom's.

The next day was spend coming back to his wife's village, and wandering around the rice fields, lake, and river. I was shown how to fish for clams. Basically, I just wade in the shallow end and dig into the dirt and grab the clams. The lake had bigger clams, but were harder to find. The river had more, and we must have collected 10kg. There were some fishermen nearby, and they showed me all the different kinds of fish they caught. Most were catfish or silverfish, but they got a few crabs and one Blowfish.

This whole time, Tin's uncle had sold a house....Start Working Finish Now not in the ordinary manner you would think. He built a prototype house across from his house. Another village had come and wanted to buy it. So instead of selling them the lumber, they wanted the prototype house. They dismantled it, dragged the lumber to a boat and floated it off. They did all this in about a day. Seems strange to built a house twice...

I was supposed to come back Saturday, but on our way home, we had to cross a ferry. At the ferry was the home of the district police chief. He saw me and invited us up to his party. Impossible to say no... Tin new him and it was like we had to pay homage to him. Corruption was very obvious, as his was the nicest house around and all he was was a police chief. Then came in the military man... Pah Ti(which translates into Father). If there ever was a Khmer version of the Godfather, this guy was it. He was fat, missing an eye, and has that cocky walk about him. The entire house bent over backwards to serve him beer, food, or make me answer the questions he asked of me. It was getting dark and the ferry was about to close but the Godfather wanted me to stay... so I stayed.

So, we ended up having to drive back(in the dark again) very slowly. This time I had my little headlamp, which did very little for the potholes, but at least I could see where the road went.

The next day, we loaded up our clams, went a different way home so as to miss Pah Ti, and fried up the clams back at Tins house in Phnom Penn. The drum trucks were still going around and making the general noise that they had been before.



.: Ben Hansen :: 11:23 PM [+] 0 comments
.: Email : :: Current Location : Breckenridge, Colorado :.





.AFOOT.and.light-hearted,.I.take.to.the.open.road,.Healthy,.free,.the.world.before.me,.The.long.brown.path.before.me,.le
ading.wherever.I.choose....Henceforth.I.ask.not.good-fortune-I.myself.am.good.fortune;.Henceforth.I.whimper.no.more,.pos
tpone.no.more,.need.nothing,..........Strong.and.content,.I.travel.the.open.road....The.earth-that.is.sufficient;.I.do.n
ot.want.the.constellations.any.nearer;.I.know.they.are.very.well.where.they.are;.I.know.they.suffice.for.those.who.belon
g.to.them.......Still.here.I.carry.my.old.delicious.burdens;.I.carry.them,.men.and.women-I.carry.them.with.me.wherever.I
.go;.I.swear.it.is.impossible.for.me.to.get.rid.of.them;.I.am.fill'd.with.them,.and.I.will.fill.them.in.return.)....You.
road.I.enter.upon.and.look.around!.I.believe.you.are.not.all.that.is.here;....I.believe.that.much.unseen.is.also.here...
.Here.the.profound.lesson.of.reception,.neither.preference.or.denial;.The.black.with.his.woolly.head,.the.felon,.the.dis
eas'd,.the.illiterate.person,.are.not.denied;.The.birth,.the.hasting.after.the.physician,.the.beggar's.tramp,.the.drunka
rd's.stagger,.the.laughing.party.of.mechanics,.The.escaped.youth,.the.rich.person's.carriage,.the.fop,.the.eloping.coupl
e,....The.early.market-man,.the.hearse,.the.moving.of.furniture.into.the.town,.the.return.back.from.the.town,.They.pass-
I.also.pass-anything.passes-none.can.be.interdicted;.None.but.are.accepted-none.but.are.dear.to.me..You.air.that.serves.
me.with.breath.to.speak!.You.objects.that.call.from.diffusion.my.meanings,.and.give.them.shape!....You.light.that.wraps.
me.and.all.things.in.delicate.equable.showers!.You.paths.worn.in.the.irregular.hollows.by.the.roadsides!.I.think.you.are
.latent.with.unseen.existences-you.are.so.dear.to.me....You.flagg'd.walks.of.the.cities!.you.strong.curbs.at.the.edges!.
You.ferries!.you.planks.and.posts.of.wharves!.you.timber-lined.sides!.you.distant.ships!....You.rows.of.houses!.you.wind
ow-pierc'd.façades!.you.roofs!.You.porches.and.entrances!.you.copings.and.iron.guards!.You.windows.whose.transparent.she
lls.might.expose.so.much!.You.doors.and.ascending.steps!.you.arches!.You.gray.stones.of.interminable.pavements!.you.trod
den.crossings!....From.all.that.has.been.near.you,.I.believe.you.have.imparted.to.yourselves,.and.now.would.impart.the.s
ame.secretly.to.me;From.the.living.and.the.dead.I.think.you.have.peopled.your.impassive.surfaces,.and.the.spirits.thereo
f.would.be.evident.and.amicable.with.me.....The.earth.expanding.right.hand.and.left.hand,.The.picture.alive,.every.part.
in.its.best.light,.The.music.falling.in.where.it.is.wanted,.and.stopping.where.it.is.not.wanted,....The.cheerful.voice.o
f.the.public.road-the.gay.fresh.sentiment.of.the.road....O.highway.I.travel!.O.public.road!.do.you.say.to.me,.Do.not.lea
ve.me?.Do.you.say,.Venture.not?.If.you.leave.me,.you.are.lostDo.you.say,.I.am.already.prepared-I.am.well-beaten.and.unde
nied-adhere.to.me?.O.public.road!.I.say.back,.I.am.not.afraid.to.leave.you-yet.I.love.you;....You.express.me.better.than
.I.can.express.myself;.You.shall.be.more.to.me.than.my.poem....I.think.heroic.deeds.were.all.conceiv'd.in.the.open.air,.
and.all.great.poems.also;.I.think.I.could.stop.here.myself,.and.do.miracles;.My.judgments,.thoughts,.I.henceforth.try.by
.the.open.air,.the.road;)....I.think.whatever.I.shall.meet.on.the.road.I.shall.like,.and.whoever.beholds.me.shall.like.m
e;.I.think.whoever.I.see.must.be.happy.....From.this.hour,.freedom!.From.this.hour.I.ordain.myself.loos'd.of.limits.and.
imaginary.lines,.Going.where.I.list,.my.own.master,.total.and.absolute,....Listening.to.others,.and.considering.well.wha
t.they.say,.Pausing,.searching,.receiving,.contemplating,.Gently,.but.with.undeniable.will,.divesting.myself.of.the.hold
s.that.would.hold.me....I.inhale.great.draughts.of.space;.The.east.and.the.west.are.mine,.and.the.north.and.the.south.ar
e.mine.......I.am.larger,.better.than.I.thought;.I.did.not.know.I.held.so.much.goodness....All.seems.beautiful.to.me;.I.
can.repeat.over.to.men.and.women,.You.have.done.such.good.to.me,.I.would.do.the.same.to.you....I.will.recruit.for.myself
.and.you.as.I.go;....I.will.scatter.myself.among.men.and.women.as.I.go;.I.will.toss.the.new.gladness.and.roughness.among
.them;.Whoever.denies.me,.it.shall.not.trouble.me;.Whoever.accepts.me,.he.or.she.shall.be.blessed,.and.shall.bless.me...
..Now.if.a.thousand.perfect.men.were.to.appear,.it.would.not.amaze.me;....Now.if.a.thousand.beautiful.forms.of.women.app
ear'd,.it.would.not.astonish.me....Now.I.see.the.secret.of.the.making.of.the.best.persons,.It.is.to.grow.in.the.open.air
,.and.to.eat.and.sleep.with.the.earth....Here.a.great.personal.deed.has.room;.A.great.deed.seizes.upon.the.hearts.of.the
.whole.race.of.men,....Its.effusion.of.strength.and.will.overwhelms.law,.and.mocks.all.authority.and.all.argument.agains
t.it....Here.is.the.test.of.wisdom;.Wisdom.is.not.finally.tested.in.schools;.Wisdom.cannot.be.pass'd.from.one.having.it,
.to.another.not.having.it;.Wisdom.is.of.the.Soul,.is.not.susceptible.of.proof,.is.its.own.proof,....Applies.to.all.stage
s.and.objects.and.qualities,.and.is.content,.Is.the.certainty.of.the.reality.and.immortality.of.things,.and.the.excellen
ce.of.things;.Something.there.is.in.the.float.of.the.sight.of.things.that.provokes.it.out.of.the.Soul...Now.I.reëxamine.
philosophies.and.religions,They.may.prove.well.in.lecture-rooms,.yet.not.prove.at.all.under.the.spacious.clouds,.and.alo
ng.the.landscape.and.flowing.currents.......Here.is.realization;.Here.is.a.man.tallied-he.realizes.here.what.he.has.in.h
im;.The.past,.the.future,.majesty,.love-if.they.are.vacant.of.you,.you.are.vacant.of.them....Only.the.kernel.of.every.ob
ject.nourishes;.Where.is.he.who.tears.off.the.husks.for.you.and.me?....Where.is.he.that.undoes.stratagems.and.envelopes.
for.you.and.me?...Here.is.adhesiveness-it.is.not.previously.fashion'd-it.is.apropos;.Do.you.know.what.it.is,.as.you.pass
,.to.be.loved.by.strangers?.Do.you.know.the.talk.of.those.turning.eye-balls?....Here.is.the.efflux.of.the.Soul;....The.e
fflux.of.the.Soul.comes.from.within,.through.embower'd.gates,.ever.provoking.questions:.These.yearnings,.why.are.they?.T
hese.thoughts.in.the.darkness,.why.are.they?.Why.are.there.men.and.women.that.while.they.are.nigh.me,.the.sun-light.expa
nds.my.blood?.Why,.when.they.leave.me,.do.my.pennants.of.joy.sink.flat.and.lank?.Why.are.there.trees.I.never.walk.under,
.but.large.and.melodious.thoughts.descend.upon.me?....I.think.they.hang.there.winter.and.summer.on.those.trees,.and.alwa
ys.drop.fruit.as.I.pass;).What.is.it.I.interchange.so.suddenly.with.strangers?.What.with.some.driver,.as.I.ride.on.the.s
eat.by.his.side?.What.with.some.fisherman,.drawing.his.seine.by.the.shore,.as.I.walk.by,.and.pause?.What.gives.me.to.be.
free.to.a.woman's.or.man's.good-will?.What.gives.them.to.be.free.to.mine?.......The.efflux.of.the.Soul.is.happiness-here
.is.happiness;.I.think.it.pervades.the.open.air,.waiting.at.all.times;.Now.it.flows.unto.us-we.are.rightly.charged....He
re.rises.the.fluid.and.attaching.character;.The.fluid.and.attaching.character.is.the.freshness.and.sweetness.of.man.and.
woman;....The.herbs.of.the.morning.sprout.no.fresher.and.sweeter.every.day.out.of.the.roots.of.themselves,.than.it.sprou
ts.fresh.and.sweet.continually.out.of.itself.)...Toward.the.fluid.and.attaching.character.exudes.the.sweat.of.the.love.o

f.young.and.old;.From.it.falls.distill'd.the.charm.that.mocks.beauty.and.attainments;.Toward.it.heaves.the.shuddering.lo
nging.ache.of.contact.....Allons!.whoever.you.are,.come.travel.with.me!....Traveling.with.me,.you.find.what.never.tires.
...The.earth.never.tires;.The.earth.is.rude,.silent,.incomprehensible.at.first-Nature.is.rude.and.incomprehensible.at.fi
rst;.Be.not.discouraged-keep.on-there.are.divine.things,.well.envelop'd;.I.swear.to.you.there.are.divine.things.more.bea
utiful.than.words.can.tell.......Allons!.we.must.not.stop.here!.However.sweet.these.laid-up.stores-however.convenient.th
is.dwelling,.we.cannot.remain.here;.However.shelter'd.this.port,.and.however.calm.these.waters,.we.must.not.anchor.here;
.However.welcome.the.hospitality.that.surrounds.us,.we.are.permitted.to.receive.it.but.a.little.while......Allons!.the.i
nducements.shall.be.greater;....We.will.sail.pathless.and.wild.seas;.We.will.go.where.winds.blow,.waves.dash,.and.the.Ya
nkee.clipper.speeds.by.under.full.sail....Allons!.with.power,.liberty,.the.earth,.the.elements!.Health,.defiance,.gayety
,.self-esteem,.curiosity;.Allons!.from.all.formules!....From.your.formules,.O.bat-eyed.and.materialistic.priests!...The.
stale.cadaver.blocks.up.the.passage-the.burial.waits.no.longer....Allons!.yet.take.warning!.He.traveling.with.me.needs.t
he.best.blood,.thews,.endurance;.None.may.come.to.the.trial,.till.he.or.she.bring.courage.and.health.......Come.not.here
.if.you.have.already.spent.the.best.of.yourself;.Only.those.may.come,.who.come.in.sweet.and.determin'd.bodies;.No.diseas
'd.person-no.rum-drinker.or.venereal.taint.is.permitted.here....I.and.mine.do.not.convince.by.arguments,.similes,.rhymes
;.We.convince.by.our.presence.........Listen!.I.will.be.honest.with.you;.I.do.not.offer.the.old.smooth.prizes,.but.offer
.rough.new.prizes;.These.are.the.days.that.must.happen.to.you:...You.shall.not.heap.up.what.is.call'd.riches,.You.shall.
scatter.with.lavish.hand.all.that.you.earn.or.achieve,....You.but.arrive.at.the.city.to.which.you.were.destin'd-you.hard
ly.settle.yourself.to.satisfaction,.before.you.are.call'd.by.an.irresistible.call.to.depart,.You.shall.be.treated.to.the
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