:: April 18, 2004 ::

Day 5 - Koh Ker Krash
Day 5 - Koh Ker Krash

Now, Sean is sick and wants to go home. After much persuasion from the rest of the group, we all set out together to goto Koh Ker. It was briefly the captial of ancient Cambodia. It's claim to fame is it's secluded location and a pyramid temple. We all stopped in Kulen, about 30km from the temple. There we fueled up and snacked on frog and monkey. No kidding...

Back to a story on Karma:
--------------------------------

After finishing our meal and trying to figure out the bill, I go to get fuel. I ask for 3 litres, and know the price. The lady quotes me a higher price. I give what I feel is right and start to ride off. Henry stops me and says that the lady put more than 3 liters in and wants more money. After arguing with the lady, through Henry, I pay the lady, but I am in a frustrated mood. The rest of the group goes off on the road to Koh Ker. Only Simon is behind me. Tim is directly in front of me. I am trying to keep up with Tim, which I knew better than trying. The road was actually quite smooth, but still dirt and rock, so I was going pretty fast, somewhere between 50-80 km/hr(this is an estimate since no rental in all of cambodia has a working speedometer, odometer, or anything else that locals deem nonessential).

So I am still daydreaming and thinking about what has just happened when I look up and see a sharp left turn after a bride. I took the wrong line into the turn, I was too far to the left to safely turn. I use my front brake to try to slow down quickly, but because of the mechanic making the brakes too tight, I use too much pressure and the front brake locks...

So, for those of you who don't know what happens when the front brake locks = you crash. There is NOTHING you can do. The entire front end jerked my hands off the handlebars. I tried to grab them again, but the bike had already started to go down. I moved the handlebars straight again, but by this time it jerked again and I was going off the road down into a ditch. I had the heavy backpack on, so it was not easy to jump off the bike, but somehow I did. I landed on my right side and skidded, mostly on the bag, for maybe 10 meters.

After the dust settled, my shoes were missing, and I was checking myself for injuries. 3 slight road rash cuts on my palm, hip, and ankle. Nothing broken. Oddly enough, all I could think about is where the hell my shoes went. This was just in front of a village, so all the villagers were running at me. I jump to my feet to show I'm alright, but I have to fend them off from grabbing me and trying to console me... I guess.

Then Simon comes into the picture. He shoos away all the villagers, picks my bike up and starts it with 2 kicks, then turns it off, and comes to help clean my wounds...The villagers loved this part. We used bottled water to wash away the dirt from the cuts. Not surprisingly, it stung very bad everytime he poured water on me. I would give a little yelp of pain, then there would be a laugh from the croud. Simon noticed this and started to make a game of it...

1.pour water
2.make Ben scream
3.make villagers laugh
4.repeat

It was almost like we was a conductor, and used to water to make painful music. I was all in good fun, and it actually helped me keep my mind off things, as I was quite angry that I got in the accident in the first place. So, I put iodine and bandaged up myself and tried to start the bike again... won't start.

Plus, the kick pedal is now jammed. Simon started it fine, so we know it runs, but we can's kick it now, and no electric starter. This is all in direct sunlight, so I am getting a little dehydrated. Quick thinking results in me digging through my backpack to get my hammock out to use as a tow rope. A few villagers try to push start it, but we need more speed. So, Simon drags me out of the village(a relief to get away from all those staring eyes), but the bike still won't clutch start.

It's been almost 45 minutes, and finally Shawn and John come back to see what's wrong. Just as well, because the road got tough, and Simon could not have towed me the whole way. John is a magician with my bike... well mostly because he had boots and could kick it harder than me. He unjammed the kickstarter, and managed to start the bike. The next 15km were over seriously damaged bridges. We're talking huge holes in the middle, and the bike must follow a single plank to get to the other side. Again, if I had the time I would have stopped to take pictures, because even now I can't believe I made it over some of those bridges.

So, after regrouping, and reassuring everyone I was alright to continue, we get to a little town 8km outside of the temple. Most of the hardcore guys want to find harder roads instead of visiting the temple. Only Henry and I want to see the temple. Mike, Sean, and Simon go on to Siem Reap, and the others look for the hard track. Tim stays behind to look after my big back, which has my took kit....

Of course, my front wheel locks again, but I don't have a wrench to loosen the screw to fix the problem. So, Henry must go all the way back while I find a shaded spot to wait. Finding a shady spot is not as easy as it sounds. You must find a spot ON THE ROAD. This is still a heavily mined area, and you aren't supposed to leave the track. Luckily, I didn't have to wait too long. It turns out that the government is in the process of builing a big road from Siem Reap to Koh Ker, right on top of where the tough road used to be. So, the hardcore guys decided to come see the temple. Luckily, Francois fixed my bike again, and we were off. So, it a year or two, the whole route we went will be unnessesary, as package tourists will be able to take the bus.... but our way was definately more fun.

The temple was awsome. Two AK-47 armed soldiers accompanied us up and down the pyramid temple. We were the only people there, which was a surprise... it being Khmer New Year. We tipped the guards and they took us on a tour, trough mined areas, to other minor temple sites. But, nothing was as spectacular as standing on top of the pyramid.

It was getting late, and Dara and I were at the back of the group. We missed a turn and ended up loosing 30 minutes... time that would be important later. So, most of the road back to Siem Reap was smooth, but maybe 40km from the main road, it started to get dark. I had to slow down, and then my entire body started to shut down. The adrenaline and energy were completely gone, and I almost collapsed off the bike a few time. All the tough technical riding I did was nothing compared to a simple road with potholes while it is dark and the rider is tired. So, Francios helped by setting a pace and resting with me every 10km. It was nice to stop, because we did so in front of houses that were decorated with candles leading up the stairs to a big star, all lit up like Christmas. It was very pretty.

I somehow gathered enough strength to get to Siem Reap. Everyone else had dinner, but I went straight to bed. I found a cheap $3/night place in the middle of a busy time of year... go figure.


.: Ben Hansen :: 4:27 AM [+] 0 comments
.: Email : :: Current Location : Breckenridge, Colorado :.





.AFOOT.and.light-hearted,.I.take.to.the.open.road,.Healthy,.free,.the.world.before.me,.The.long.brown.path.before.me,.le
ading.wherever.I.choose....Henceforth.I.ask.not.good-fortune-I.myself.am.good.fortune;.Henceforth.I.whimper.no.more,.pos
tpone.no.more,.need.nothing,..........Strong.and.content,.I.travel.the.open.road....The.earth-that.is.sufficient;.I.do.n
ot.want.the.constellations.any.nearer;.I.know.they.are.very.well.where.they.are;.I.know.they.suffice.for.those.who.belon
g.to.them.......Still.here.I.carry.my.old.delicious.burdens;.I.carry.them,.men.and.women-I.carry.them.with.me.wherever.I
.go;.I.swear.it.is.impossible.for.me.to.get.rid.of.them;.I.am.fill'd.with.them,.and.I.will.fill.them.in.return.)....You.
road.I.enter.upon.and.look.around!.I.believe.you.are.not.all.that.is.here;....I.believe.that.much.unseen.is.also.here...
.Here.the.profound.lesson.of.reception,.neither.preference.or.denial;.The.black.with.his.woolly.head,.the.felon,.the.dis
eas'd,.the.illiterate.person,.are.not.denied;.The.birth,.the.hasting.after.the.physician,.the.beggar's.tramp,.the.drunka
rd's.stagger,.the.laughing.party.of.mechanics,.The.escaped.youth,.the.rich.person's.carriage,.the.fop,.the.eloping.coupl
e,....The.early.market-man,.the.hearse,.the.moving.of.furniture.into.the.town,.the.return.back.from.the.town,.They.pass-
I.also.pass-anything.passes-none.can.be.interdicted;.None.but.are.accepted-none.but.are.dear.to.me..You.air.that.serves.
me.with.breath.to.speak!.You.objects.that.call.from.diffusion.my.meanings,.and.give.them.shape!....You.light.that.wraps.
me.and.all.things.in.delicate.equable.showers!.You.paths.worn.in.the.irregular.hollows.by.the.roadsides!.I.think.you.are
.latent.with.unseen.existences-you.are.so.dear.to.me....You.flagg'd.walks.of.the.cities!.you.strong.curbs.at.the.edges!.
You.ferries!.you.planks.and.posts.of.wharves!.you.timber-lined.sides!.you.distant.ships!....You.rows.of.houses!.you.wind
ow-pierc'd.façades!.you.roofs!.You.porches.and.entrances!.you.copings.and.iron.guards!.You.windows.whose.transparent.she
lls.might.expose.so.much!.You.doors.and.ascending.steps!.you.arches!.You.gray.stones.of.interminable.pavements!.you.trod
den.crossings!....From.all.that.has.been.near.you,.I.believe.you.have.imparted.to.yourselves,.and.now.would.impart.the.s
ame.secretly.to.me;From.the.living.and.the.dead.I.think.you.have.peopled.your.impassive.surfaces,.and.the.spirits.thereo
f.would.be.evident.and.amicable.with.me.....The.earth.expanding.right.hand.and.left.hand,.The.picture.alive,.every.part.
in.its.best.light,.The.music.falling.in.where.it.is.wanted,.and.stopping.where.it.is.not.wanted,....The.cheerful.voice.o
f.the.public.road-the.gay.fresh.sentiment.of.the.road....O.highway.I.travel!.O.public.road!.do.you.say.to.me,.Do.not.lea
ve.me?.Do.you.say,.Venture.not?.If.you.leave.me,.you.are.lostDo.you.say,.I.am.already.prepared-I.am.well-beaten.and.unde
nied-adhere.to.me?.O.public.road!.I.say.back,.I.am.not.afraid.to.leave.you-yet.I.love.you;....You.express.me.better.than
.I.can.express.myself;.You.shall.be.more.to.me.than.my.poem....I.think.heroic.deeds.were.all.conceiv'd.in.the.open.air,.
and.all.great.poems.also;.I.think.I.could.stop.here.myself,.and.do.miracles;.My.judgments,.thoughts,.I.henceforth.try.by
.the.open.air,.the.road;)....I.think.whatever.I.shall.meet.on.the.road.I.shall.like,.and.whoever.beholds.me.shall.like.m
e;.I.think.whoever.I.see.must.be.happy.....From.this.hour,.freedom!.From.this.hour.I.ordain.myself.loos'd.of.limits.and.
imaginary.lines,.Going.where.I.list,.my.own.master,.total.and.absolute,....Listening.to.others,.and.considering.well.wha
t.they.say,.Pausing,.searching,.receiving,.contemplating,.Gently,.but.with.undeniable.will,.divesting.myself.of.the.hold
s.that.would.hold.me....I.inhale.great.draughts.of.space;.The.east.and.the.west.are.mine,.and.the.north.and.the.south.ar
e.mine.......I.am.larger,.better.than.I.thought;.I.did.not.know.I.held.so.much.goodness....All.seems.beautiful.to.me;.I.
can.repeat.over.to.men.and.women,.You.have.done.such.good.to.me,.I.would.do.the.same.to.you....I.will.recruit.for.myself
.and.you.as.I.go;....I.will.scatter.myself.among.men.and.women.as.I.go;.I.will.toss.the.new.gladness.and.roughness.among
.them;.Whoever.denies.me,.it.shall.not.trouble.me;.Whoever.accepts.me,.he.or.she.shall.be.blessed,.and.shall.bless.me...
..Now.if.a.thousand.perfect.men.were.to.appear,.it.would.not.amaze.me;....Now.if.a.thousand.beautiful.forms.of.women.app
ear'd,.it.would.not.astonish.me....Now.I.see.the.secret.of.the.making.of.the.best.persons,.It.is.to.grow.in.the.open.air
,.and.to.eat.and.sleep.with.the.earth....Here.a.great.personal.deed.has.room;.A.great.deed.seizes.upon.the.hearts.of.the
.whole.race.of.men,....Its.effusion.of.strength.and.will.overwhelms.law,.and.mocks.all.authority.and.all.argument.agains
t.it....Here.is.the.test.of.wisdom;.Wisdom.is.not.finally.tested.in.schools;.Wisdom.cannot.be.pass'd.from.one.having.it,
.to.another.not.having.it;.Wisdom.is.of.the.Soul,.is.not.susceptible.of.proof,.is.its.own.proof,....Applies.to.all.stage
s.and.objects.and.qualities,.and.is.content,.Is.the.certainty.of.the.reality.and.immortality.of.things,.and.the.excellen
ce.of.things;.Something.there.is.in.the.float.of.the.sight.of.things.that.provokes.it.out.of.the.Soul...Now.I.reëxamine.
philosophies.and.religions,They.may.prove.well.in.lecture-rooms,.yet.not.prove.at.all.under.the.spacious.clouds,.and.alo
ng.the.landscape.and.flowing.currents.......Here.is.realization;.Here.is.a.man.tallied-he.realizes.here.what.he.has.in.h
im;.The.past,.the.future,.majesty,.love-if.they.are.vacant.of.you,.you.are.vacant.of.them....Only.the.kernel.of.every.ob
ject.nourishes;.Where.is.he.who.tears.off.the.husks.for.you.and.me?....Where.is.he.that.undoes.stratagems.and.envelopes.
for.you.and.me?...Here.is.adhesiveness-it.is.not.previously.fashion'd-it.is.apropos;.Do.you.know.what.it.is,.as.you.pass
,.to.be.loved.by.strangers?.Do.you.know.the.talk.of.those.turning.eye-balls?....Here.is.the.efflux.of.the.Soul;....The.e
fflux.of.the.Soul.comes.from.within,.through.embower'd.gates,.ever.provoking.questions:.These.yearnings,.why.are.they?.T
hese.thoughts.in.the.darkness,.why.are.they?.Why.are.there.men.and.women.that.while.they.are.nigh.me,.the.sun-light.expa
nds.my.blood?.Why,.when.they.leave.me,.do.my.pennants.of.joy.sink.flat.and.lank?.Why.are.there.trees.I.never.walk.under,
.but.large.and.melodious.thoughts.descend.upon.me?....I.think.they.hang.there.winter.and.summer.on.those.trees,.and.alwa
ys.drop.fruit.as.I.pass;).What.is.it.I.interchange.so.suddenly.with.strangers?.What.with.some.driver,.as.I.ride.on.the.s
eat.by.his.side?.What.with.some.fisherman,.drawing.his.seine.by.the.shore,.as.I.walk.by,.and.pause?.What.gives.me.to.be.
free.to.a.woman's.or.man's.good-will?.What.gives.them.to.be.free.to.mine?.......The.efflux.of.the.Soul.is.happiness-here
.is.happiness;.I.think.it.pervades.the.open.air,.waiting.at.all.times;.Now.it.flows.unto.us-we.are.rightly.charged....He
re.rises.the.fluid.and.attaching.character;.The.fluid.and.attaching.character.is.the.freshness.and.sweetness.of.man.and.
woman;....The.herbs.of.the.morning.sprout.no.fresher.and.sweeter.every.day.out.of.the.roots.of.themselves,.than.it.sprou
ts.fresh.and.sweet.continually.out.of.itself.)...Toward.the.fluid.and.attaching.character.exudes.the.sweat.of.the.love.o

f.young.and.old;.From.it.falls.distill'd.the.charm.that.mocks.beauty.and.attainments;.Toward.it.heaves.the.shuddering.lo
nging.ache.of.contact.....Allons!.whoever.you.are,.come.travel.with.me!....Traveling.with.me,.you.find.what.never.tires.
...The.earth.never.tires;.The.earth.is.rude,.silent,.incomprehensible.at.first-Nature.is.rude.and.incomprehensible.at.fi
rst;.Be.not.discouraged-keep.on-there.are.divine.things,.well.envelop'd;.I.swear.to.you.there.are.divine.things.more.bea
utiful.than.words.can.tell.......Allons!.we.must.not.stop.here!.However.sweet.these.laid-up.stores-however.convenient.th
is.dwelling,.we.cannot.remain.here;.However.shelter'd.this.port,.and.however.calm.these.waters,.we.must.not.anchor.here;
.However.welcome.the.hospitality.that.surrounds.us,.we.are.permitted.to.receive.it.but.a.little.while......Allons!.the.i
nducements.shall.be.greater;....We.will.sail.pathless.and.wild.seas;.We.will.go.where.winds.blow,.waves.dash,.and.the.Ya
nkee.clipper.speeds.by.under.full.sail....Allons!.with.power,.liberty,.the.earth,.the.elements!.Health,.defiance,.gayety
,.self-esteem,.curiosity;.Allons!.from.all.formules!....From.your.formules,.O.bat-eyed.and.materialistic.priests!...The.
stale.cadaver.blocks.up.the.passage-the.burial.waits.no.longer....Allons!.yet.take.warning!.He.traveling.with.me.needs.t
he.best.blood,.thews,.endurance;.None.may.come.to.the.trial,.till.he.or.she.bring.courage.and.health.......Come.not.here
.if.you.have.already.spent.the.best.of.yourself;.Only.those.may.come,.who.come.in.sweet.and.determin'd.bodies;.No.diseas
'd.person-no.rum-drinker.or.venereal.taint.is.permitted.here....I.and.mine.do.not.convince.by.arguments,.similes,.rhymes
;.We.convince.by.our.presence.........Listen!.I.will.be.honest.with.you;.I.do.not.offer.the.old.smooth.prizes,.but.offer
.rough.new.prizes;.These.are.the.days.that.must.happen.to.you:...You.shall.not.heap.up.what.is.call'd.riches,.You.shall.
scatter.with.lavish.hand.all.that.you.earn.or.achieve,....You.but.arrive.at.the.city.to.which.you.were.destin'd-you.hard
ly.settle.yourself.to.satisfaction,.before.you.are.call'd.by.an.irresistible.call.to.depart,.You.shall.be.treated.to.the
Open links in secondary window