We had 15 days left before our flight back to the states, so we took all of the advice from travellers who had already been around the area. The Indian Himalayas and Langtang area of Nepal were high on our list, but we couldn't decide where to go. The monsoons were coming and changing flights plus getting an Indian visa is more complicated than quantum physics. So, we left it to the flip of a coin.... Nepal beat India.But I couldn't make this too easy on myself, so I had a buffet of strange meat while there was no power in the city(which means no oven, but you can always cook with fire). Round 3 of stomach problems (The Kathmandu Quickstep, Delhi Belly, Montezuma's Revenge), this time with vomiting included. We either could take the long bus up and hike back to Kathmandu, or the short bus up to hike up to the mountains and ride the bus back. Mike graciously suggested the short bus first, and it would allow us to hike in the lowlands sooner so we might be able to miss the monsoons.
It was only 10km away, but the bus took 2 hours. I got the last seat in the back of the bus, next to a window(there were already stains down the side of the bus, so others had the same problem and thought the same thing). The only problem was the seats in the back were too small. I had my head out the window, but it was too small as well, so every big bump caused my head to bash into the side. I was airborn once a good 6-12 inches off the seat. We stopped to pick up more passengers and I couldn't take it any longer. I climbed out the window and onto the roof. The rest of the passengers thought this was hilarious, but the door guy yelled at me that I had to come back in. Apparently, only within the city limits is it taboo to be on top of the bus, once you are outside the city limits... no holds barred....
It didn't matter because we were stuck in traffic for 30 minutes because two buses couldn't get around each other and everyone piled in behind them to block the road. Watching guys stare at the buses with cigarettes to help them think was enough time for me to gain the strength to stand back in the bus(I had lost my seat and the bus was too full to get back to the back).
We had started late that day because it was supposed to be an easy day. It was 3pm by the time we arrived at the start of the trek, but I was so weak from vomiting I was walking at half my normal speed. There were no lodges once we got into the Shivapuri National Wildlife Watershed, which was only 30 minutes into the trek, so we had to keep going. My weakness got worse and I was literally pulling myself up with my hiking stick because my legs were jelly. There wasn't anything Mike could do but wait for me. It was sunset and we still hadn't crossed the pass that would allow us down to the next town we knew had a lodge. With our headlamps on(not on our heads because the bugs went straight for your eyes) we crossed the pass in the mist of fog and looked at our map. It showed we would leave the watershed and we figured there would be a gate or checkpost. We saw one, but no sign and barbed wire across the trail. Must be to keep the wildlife in and non paying
guest out, right?Next came a pit... with bamboo spikes at the bottom. Yes, sharp pointy sticks in a hole in the ground the size of a bus. We expected poisoned darts and a huge rolling boulder next, e.g. Indiana Jones. But we walked around it and just saw more barbed wire across the trail and then heard some guy singing in the night. By this time we had guessed what this was, an army base. We were a little hesitant to alert our presence to a possible drunk and armed soldier late at night. But, he yelled out(in perfect english no less) that we needed to go back and down the other trail. We stumbled into town and the owner of a lodge was waiting up for us like we were expected.
We met two Swedes that informed us the Ganja La pass we intended to do was snowbound and impassable in certain areas unless you had climbing equipment. It was lower than the other passes we had done, but we kept hearing that a guide was needed and it couldn't be done in one day as we had hoped to do. So, now we couldn't do a circuit and would have to do an out and back hike. We first had to cross the Laurabina La at 4610m in the Gosainkund area where there was a Hindu holy lake.
We had a good laugh with our lodge owner when I shared my chocolate spead with him. He then told us the story of one of his male workers who found some unused tampons in a room and walked all around town asking what they were. Nepalis are very modest and no one would tell him until a few trekkers informed him of their purpose. All the light mood was good as I was now recovered from my sickness and wanted to get my strength back. We were a little disoriented from coming in during the night, but we were pointed in the right way and had long hike down and back up the next valley. On clear days we could have seen both the Annapurna and Everest ranges on either side of us. We did get a very nice sunset and views of what we thought might have been Everest.
Several cloudy and rainy days of hiking got us over the pass and to the Gosainkund lake. We could have pushed on, but we were hoping it would clear for some views... It didn't. We did get our 15 minute view, when suddenly the clouds will part and you have to run out to take pictures. Then the clouds come back in quickly and the views are gone. Even though this lake was a little warmer, and holier apparently, we skipped out on the skinny dipping. Our shortest day of the trip, a one hour trek down, was done in the rain and then we had to wait out the rest of the day in the dining room, drying out our clothes and playing endless games of cards and chess. Only when we couldn't hike for long hours did we realize there wasn't much to do in these lodges. Normally we just come in right at dinner time and eat and then crash into bed from exhaustion.
We now were in the Langtang Valley, but we had to lose nearly 2000m of elevation just so we could climb back up again. We made the trek up quickly in two days since we were still acclimatized from the pass. We acquired a trekking partner, a 12 year old kid who wanted us to eat at his lodge. The lodge was closed and he had to run off and find his sister to open it up. After a while she came and cooked us an awful meal of fried noodles(it's hard to mess up noodles, but it's been done twice to us now on this trip). To be fair, it's not the best season for growing any food up this high, and the harvests don't come in till the fall. So, there is no cheese or fruit and very few vegetables. Only the staples of rice, potatoes and whatever can be hauled up by the porters.
The sister said she had a lodge at the final town of Kyanjin Gompa, but it was closed so she would hike with us to open it up. It was raining and she hiked up the whole way with us and guilt tripped us into staying at her lodge. It was cheaper than the others, free actually since it is low season and the rooms are given away in order for the trekkers to stay and buy food. To our surprise, we were cooked probably the best Dal Bhat(the staple Nepali Meal), which included fresh morelle mushrooms and a spicier curry/dal sauce.
It would rain around 5am, but we had to be out and trekking by 6am in order to hit our cloudless window from 8-10am. First we walked all the way up valley to Gangchenpo and the border area. We were stopped by a washed out bridge, but managed to climb up the side of the glacier to see the pleasant meadows filled with horses and yaks below. Mike twisted an ankle in a stream crossing but soldiered on. We even had time to come back to visit the gompa and take a tour of the cheese factory, which would receive the yak milk in the next week to start making more cheese.
Our final day in the high country was our last chance to see some of the high peaks at a viewpoint above the town called Kyanjin Ri. The trail split early and we went different ways thinking we could get more pictures from different areas. Mike hiked to a set of prayer flags on the Langtang Valley side and I hiked to a saddle which was closer to the Langtang Glacier. We both made it to our areas by 9am, but the clouds came up within 5 minutes. It's amazing how fast they form and fly up the sides of the valley. We never met each other on the mountain and had to wander back on separate paths to Kyanjin gompa. Mike met a guy wanting a watch, but I had a watch I could easily part with. Mike thought I was behind him so he told the guy to look for me. I was probably 2 km away, on the other side of a range when i bumped into a guy looking for his yaks. He asked the time and I could tell he wanted the watch. I'm sure it wasn't the same guy, but I wouldn't doubt
the ability of a nepali to haul ass and find me just so he could have a watch.We spent two days getting down the valley to the "road" at Syrabu Besi. We would take the 6-10 hour bus ride back to Kathmandu the next morning. The large difference in possible times is due to road conditions changing for landslides. We wandered around town and I jumped into a soccer match playing near a school. The game ended after 30 min when the ball(mostly deflated but still roundish) was kicked off the side and down into the river. One of the kids took this opportunity to show me his home and ask for sponsorship to help with his schooling. After living on the cheap and realizing the Langtang area had been cheaper than the other trekking areas, I reassessed my finances and decided I could part with $100 US. I asked him what this would get him. This amount would pay for his school supplies, admission(there is no free education system in Nepal), and boarding in Kathmandu for 3 months. Many times I have spent more than that on a night out or for a full
tank of gas. It's always humbling to know what money can get you in different parts of the world...--
And now... it seems that all my good stories are bus stories... If I ever wrote a book, I would have to specialize on third world bus rides...The 14 Hour Bus Ride From Syrabu Besi to Kathmandu:
The bus was a normal size bus this time, but the road was the mini version and dirt for over half the way back. We bought tickets with seats, but lucky us, our seats were in the back row. I wasn't going to squeeze in, so I jumped on the roof. This way I could look after our bags that were stored up there. We made it 5 minutes out of town and the bus got bogged down in the mud on a steep uphill. A few people got off to throw clay and rocks under the tires, but the bus just spun closer to the edge of the 100 meter dropoff. When he was within 3 feet of the edge, this prompted everyone to get off the bus and walk down the road so the less weight would help him up the steep slope. After 15 minutes the bus made it back on, and we all jumped back on.
I scraped my knuckle in the process and dipped into my medical bag for antiseptic and a band-aid. The rest of the Nepalis noticed this and I became the impromptu doctor of the bus, handing out what few things I had left. I was offered a small plum-like fruit in appreciation. It took two hours to get to the next town. We were all told to get off the top of the bus because the army checkpost was coming up. We had to show our national park receipts, the tourists at least, and then we were back on the top of the bus. 5 minutes down the road, mike yells up to me to ask if I have his passport. In the confusion, I thought the army guard had put his passport back his backpack, but I didn't check and I just gave the backpack back to mike. So, we stopped the whole bus and a motorcycle stopped to turn around and drive mike back. Our bus kept going, thinking that Mike would catch up on the motorcycle since the bus was so slow. He didn't need to as we were stopped in
the road by another bus with a broken axle. The other bus managed to stop right in the middle, blocked both directions. Our bus was scavenged for parts in order to get the broken down bus moving again. An hour later, the bus was fixed, but another bus had gotten stuck trying to pull off the side. Oh well, we didn't stop to help, as the other bus was empty.With all the delays, we didn't make it to our scheduled lunchtime restaurant stop until 2pm. Dal Bhat was made in mass quantities and plopped down in front of you before you even sat down at the table. The sun was out now and baking the top of the bus, but I had lost my seat to the many newcomers now standing in the aisles. So, I had to stay on the top, but was entertained as we had 4 buses racing, NASCAR style, with everyone on top of the bus yelling and cheering on like spectators. Our driver was the most timid and we ended up last, plus with our lack of parts, we seemed to have a real hard time turning left. On the switchbacks we could make the right hand turns fine, but on the left hand turns we had to make three point turns, backing up precariously close to the edge.
We finally made it to Trisuli Bazaar by 5pm, but the driver thought this was the best time to work on the bus and try to fix the no-left-turn problem. This gave us enough time to wait for the rains to build up and start pouring down. We waited for close to 2 hours and it was dusk by the time the rain really started to come down. I had tried to find a seat next to the driver, but everytime he shifted into second gear, he'd smash me in the back. One french guy stayed on top through the downpours, and everyone kept trying to look up to see if he was still there.
Then came the river crossings. Two times we had to keep up speed and plow through standing water that had overflowed the water channels from the heavy rain. But on the third one we were stopped by other buses. After waiting for 30 minutes, it was decided that we would walk across the mud that had blocked the road to a bus on the other side, it would turn around, and the other bus' occupants would do the same to our bus. Did I mention it was pouring rain... So, now we have a bus full of soaked people and Mike and I were tired of squeezing into the back, so we just appropriated new seats since it was a new bus. This all sounds fine in text, but how do you turn around a 30 foot bus when the road isn't 30 feet wide? Our driver was going to try... We backed up about 20 meters, passing or forcing cars to move out of our way, when he stopped and went forward again.
It was then that we noticed buses come from the other direction. Wait, wasn't that our old empty bus going past us? Yup, the mudslide had been cleared and the road was open again. So, back out into the rain to switch back to our original bus. A few more hours were still needed to get into Kathmandu. We finally arrived at 9pm, 14 hours after we started, all to get 100km or 60 miles. We ended up sharing a taxi with the french couple we stole the seats on the bus from, but within 30 seconds the taxi got a puncture in the tire... Our driver was determined to keep our fare, so he managed to change the tire in under 5 minutes in the pouring rain. After such a long hard journey, we settled on a hotel called, "Hotel Easy"...
--
Killing 4 days in Kathmandu isn't hard if you like temples and shopping, but I'd already done that the previous 2 times we'd been here and there was little left to do. We bought our last few items and decided to visit our last temple, Pashupatinath. It was a Hindu temple and we walked through town for an hour to save some cash and see some different areas of town. We passed the circus tent blasting religious music into the air and then passed a few signs that said "Hindu Only". I thought Muslims were the exclusion religion, but it looks like Hindus want to join the club. We were then requested to buy tickets, but only tourists had to purchase them. Hindus were free, so I boldly claimed, "I am Hindu" and walked past the ticket counter. Mike followed and we had about 5 minutes before the "tourist police" came and asked us for our tickets. We played dumb, I stuck to my hindu story, and then just talked circles around them in hopes they would get bored of
us. They finally did, and we just walked away to continue our browsing. This was all over a $3.50 US ticket, but how about I charge all non-americans for reading this email. I'm not a big fan of exclusion...Then the circus really began. Hindu's perform their cremations on a funeral pyre by the river. The hospital in next to the temple where the body is wrapped and cleansed in the river. It is then taken to one of the pyres lining the river. The ones closer to the temple cost more than the ones farther away. The body is then set upon a stack of wood and set alight. It was a slow burning fire and a little unnerving to realize the smoke we were breathing in used to be a human being. The ashes were then swept into the river to flow down and meet with the holy Ganges river. This was all conveyed to us by a small boy wanted to practice his english and show off his knowledge.
We watched all this from the other side of the river, on steps that overlooked the whole process. Along with us were other tourists, nepalis, and vendors(selling newspapers, cotton candy and Sardu's who want money for smearing a bindi on your forehead). It was morbid for me to watch the cremation process, but I understand the grieving process for the family. I don't understand the spectacle of it all.
We enjoyed our time in Nepal immensely, and regretted having to go home, but 27 hours of airplanes later... and we're back in america with it's $4 gallon of gas...
Our three trips to Annapurna, Khumbu, and Langtang consisted of 43 days of trekking, for a distance of 522km/324 miles, with an elevation gain of 20,300m/66,600 feet, and with a profound respect for the resourcefulness and strength of the Nepali People. The culture shock is slowly starting to sink in of having to re-adapt to my own culture and I already wish I was back travelling again.
"When Bush took office, gas cost $1.46" - Bumper sticker seen while driving back from the airport
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.: Ben Hansen :: 7:10 PM [+] 0 comments
.AFOOT.and.light-hearted,.I.take.to.the.open.road,.Healthy,.free,.the.world.before.me,.The.long.brown.path.before.me,.le ading.wherever.I.choose....Henceforth.I.ask.not.good-fortune-I.myself.am.good.fortune;.Henceforth.I.whimper.no.more,.pos tpone.no.more,.need.nothing,..........Strong.and.content,.I.travel.the.open.road....The.earth-that.is.sufficient;.I.do.n ot.want.the.constellations.any.nearer;.I.know.they.are.very.well.where.they.are;.I.know.they.suffice.for.those.who.belon g.to.them.......Still.here.I.carry.my.old.delicious.burdens;.I.carry.them,.men.and.women-I.carry.them.with.me.wherever.I .go;.I.swear.it.is.impossible.for.me.to.get.rid.of.them;.I.am.fill'd.with.them,.and.I.will.fill.them.in.return.)....You. road.I.enter.upon.and.look.around!.I.believe.you.are.not.all.that.is.here;....I.believe.that.much.unseen.is.also.here... .Here.the.profound.lesson.of.reception,.neither.preference.or.denial;.The.black.with.his.woolly.head,.the.felon,.the.dis eas'd,.the.illiterate.person,.are.not.denied;.The.birth,.the.hasting.after.the.physician,.the.beggar's.tramp,.the.drunka rd's.stagger,.the.laughing.party.of.mechanics,.The.escaped.youth,.the.rich.person's.carriage,.the.fop,.the.eloping.coupl e,....The.early.market-man,.the.hearse,.the.moving.of.furniture.into.the.town,.the.return.back.from.the.town,.They.pass- I.also.pass-anything.passes-none.can.be.interdicted;.None.but.are.accepted-none.but.are.dear.to.me..You.air.that.serves. me.with.breath.to.speak!.You.objects.that.call.from.diffusion.my.meanings,.and.give.them.shape!....You.light.that.wraps. me.and.all.things.in.delicate.equable.showers!.You.paths.worn.in.the.irregular.hollows.by.the.roadsides!.I.think.you.are .latent.with.unseen.existences-you.are.so.dear.to.me....You.flagg'd.walks.of.the.cities!.you.strong.curbs.at.the.edges!. You.ferries!.you.planks.and.posts.of.wharves!.you.timber-lined.sides!.you.distant.ships!....You.rows.of.houses!.you.wind ow-pierc'd.façades!.you.roofs!.You.porches.and.entrances!.you.copings.and.iron.guards!.You.windows.whose.transparent.she lls.might.expose.so.much!.You.doors.and.ascending.steps!.you.arches!.You.gray.stones.of.interminable.pavements!.you.trod den.crossings!....From.all.that.has.been.near.you,.I.believe.you.have.imparted.to.yourselves,.and.now.would.impart.the.s ame.secretly.to.me;From.the.living.and.the.dead.I.think.you.have.peopled.your.impassive.surfaces,.and.the.spirits.thereo f.would.be.evident.and.amicable.with.me.....The.earth.expanding.right.hand.and.left.hand,.The.picture.alive,.every.part. in.its.best.light,.The.music.falling.in.where.it.is.wanted,.and.stopping.where.it.is.not.wanted,....The.cheerful.voice.o f.the.public.road-the.gay.fresh.sentiment.of.the.road....O.highway.I.travel!.O.public.road!.do.you.say.to.me,.Do.not.lea ve.me?.Do.you.say,.Venture.not?.If.you.leave.me,.you.are.lostDo.you.say,.I.am.already.prepared-I.am.well-beaten.and.unde nied-adhere.to.me?.O.public.road!.I.say.back,.I.am.not.afraid.to.leave.you-yet.I.love.you;....You.express.me.better.than .I.can.express.myself;.You.shall.be.more.to.me.than.my.poem....I.think.heroic.deeds.were.all.conceiv'd.in.the.open.air,. and.all.great.poems.also;.I.think.I.could.stop.here.myself,.and.do.miracles;.My.judgments,.thoughts,.I.henceforth.try.by .the.open.air,.the.road;)....I.think.whatever.I.shall.meet.on.the.road.I.shall.like,.and.whoever.beholds.me.shall.like.m e;.I.think.whoever.I.see.must.be.happy.....From.this.hour,.freedom!.From.this.hour.I.ordain.myself.loos'd.of.limits.and. imaginary.lines,.Going.where.I.list,.my.own.master,.total.and.absolute,....Listening.to.others,.and.considering.well.wha t.they.say,.Pausing,.searching,.receiving,.contemplating,.Gently,.but.with.undeniable.will,.divesting.myself.of.the.hold s.that.would.hold.me....I.inhale.great.draughts.of.space;.The.east.and.the.west.are.mine,.and.the.north.and.the.south.ar e.mine.......I.am.larger,.better.than.I.thought;.I.did.not.know.I.held.so.much.goodness....All.seems.beautiful.to.me;.I. can.repeat.over.to.men.and.women,.You.have.done.such.good.to.me,.I.would.do.the.same.to.you....I.will.recruit.for.myself .and.you.as.I.go;....I.will.scatter.myself.among.men.and.women.as.I.go;.I.will.toss.the.new.gladness.and.roughness.among .them;.Whoever.denies.me,.it.shall.not.trouble.me;.Whoever.accepts.me,.he.or.she.shall.be.blessed,.and.shall.bless.me... ..Now.if.a.thousand.perfect.men.were.to.appear,.it.would.not.amaze.me;....Now.if.a.thousand.beautiful.forms.of.women.app ear'd,.it.would.not.astonish.me....Now.I.see.the.secret.of.the.making.of.the.best.persons,.It.is.to.grow.in.the.open.air ,.and.to.eat.and.sleep.with.the.earth....Here.a.great.personal.deed.has.room;.A.great.deed.seizes.upon.the.hearts.of.the .whole.race.of.men,....Its.effusion.of.strength.and.will.overwhelms.law,.and.mocks.all.authority.and.all.argument.agains t.it....Here.is.the.test.of.wisdom;.Wisdom.is.not.finally.tested.in.schools;.Wisdom.cannot.be.pass'd.from.one.having.it, .to.another.not.having.it;.Wisdom.is.of.the.Soul,.is.not.susceptible.of.proof,.is.its.own.proof,....Applies.to.all.stage s.and.objects.and.qualities,.and.is.content,.Is.the.certainty.of.the.reality.and.immortality.of.things,.and.the.excellen ce.of.things;.Something.there.is.in.the.float.of.the.sight.of.things.that.provokes.it.out.of.the.Soul...Now.I.reëxamine. philosophies.and.religions,They.may.prove.well.in.lecture-rooms,.yet.not.prove.at.all.under.the.spacious.clouds,.and.alo ng.the.landscape.and.flowing.currents.......Here.is.realization;.Here.is.a.man.tallied-he.realizes.here.what.he.has.in.h im;.The.past,.the.future,.majesty,.love-if.they.are.vacant.of.you,.you.are.vacant.of.them....Only.the.kernel.of.every.ob ject.nourishes;.Where.is.he.who.tears.off.the.husks.for.you.and.me?....Where.is.he.that.undoes.stratagems.and.envelopes. for.you.and.me?...Here.is.adhesiveness-it.is.not.previously.fashion'd-it.is.apropos;.Do.you.know.what.it.is,.as.you.pass ,.to.be.loved.by.strangers?.Do.you.know.the.talk.of.those.turning.eye-balls?....Here.is.the.efflux.of.the.Soul;....The.e fflux.of.the.Soul.comes.from.within,.through.embower'd.gates,.ever.provoking.questions:.These.yearnings,.why.are.they?.T hese.thoughts.in.the.darkness,.why.are.they?.Why.are.there.men.and.women.that.while.they.are.nigh.me,.the.sun-light.expa nds.my.blood?.Why,.when.they.leave.me,.do.my.pennants.of.joy.sink.flat.and.lank?.Why.are.there.trees.I.never.walk.under, .but.large.and.melodious.thoughts.descend.upon.me?....I.think.they.hang.there.winter.and.summer.on.those.trees,.and.alwa ys.drop.fruit.as.I.pass;).What.is.it.I.interchange.so.suddenly.with.strangers?.What.with.some.driver,.as.I.ride.on.the.s eat.by.his.side?.What.with.some.fisherman,.drawing.his.seine.by.the.shore,.as.I.walk.by,.and.pause?.What.gives.me.to.be. free.to.a.woman's.or.man's.good-will?.What.gives.them.to.be.free.to.mine?.......The.efflux.of.the.Soul.is.happiness-here .is.happiness;.I.think.it.pervades.the.open.air,.waiting.at.all.times;.Now.it.flows.unto.us-we.are.rightly.charged....He re.rises.the.fluid.and.attaching.character;.The.fluid.and.attaching.character.is.the.freshness.and.sweetness.of.man.and. woman;....The.herbs.of.the.morning.sprout.no.fresher.and.sweeter.every.day.out.of.the.roots.of.themselves,.than.it.sprou ts.fresh.and.sweet.continually.out.of.itself.)...Toward.the.fluid.and.attaching.character.exudes.the.sweat.of.the.love.o f.young.and.old;.From.it.falls.distill'd.the.charm.that.mocks.beauty.and.attainments;.Toward.it.heaves.the.shuddering.lo nging.ache.of.contact.....Allons!.whoever.you.are,.come.travel.with.me!....Traveling.with.me,.you.find.what.never.tires. ...The.earth.never.tires;.The.earth.is.rude,.silent,.incomprehensible.at.first-Nature.is.rude.and.incomprehensible.at.fi rst;.Be.not.discouraged-keep.on-there.are.divine.things,.well.envelop'd;.I.swear.to.you.there.are.divine.things.more.bea utiful.than.words.can.tell.......Allons!.we.must.not.stop.here!.However.sweet.these.laid-up.stores-however.convenient.th is.dwelling,.we.cannot.remain.here;.However.shelter'd.this.port,.and.however.calm.these.waters,.we.must.not.anchor.here; .However.welcome.the.hospitality.that.surrounds.us,.we.are.permitted.to.receive.it.but.a.little.while......Allons!.the.i nducements.shall.be.greater;....We.will.sail.pathless.and.wild.seas;.We.will.go.where.winds.blow,.waves.dash,.and.the.Ya nkee.clipper.speeds.by.under.full.sail....Allons!.with.power,.liberty,.the.earth,.the.elements!.Health,.defiance,.gayety ,.self-esteem,.curiosity;.Allons!.from.all.formules!....From.your.formules,.O.bat-eyed.and.materialistic.priests!...The. stale.cadaver.blocks.up.the.passage-the.burial.waits.no.longer....Allons!.yet.take.warning!.He.traveling.with.me.needs.t he.best.blood,.thews,.endurance;.None.may.come.to.the.trial,.till.he.or.she.bring.courage.and.health.......Come.not.here .if.you.have.already.spent.the.best.of.yourself;.Only.those.may.come,.who.come.in.sweet.and.determin'd.bodies;.No.diseas 'd.person-no.rum-drinker.or.venereal.taint.is.permitted.here....I.and.mine.do.not.convince.by.arguments,.similes,.rhymes ;.We.convince.by.our.presence.........Listen!.I.will.be.honest.with.you;.I.do.not.offer.the.old.smooth.prizes,.but.offer .rough.new.prizes;.These.are.the.days.that.must.happen.to.you:...You.shall.not.heap.up.what.is.call'd.riches,.You.shall. scatter.with.lavish.hand.all.that.you.earn.or.achieve,....You.but.arrive.at.the.city.to.which.you.were.destin'd-you.hard ly.settle.yourself.to.satisfaction,.before.you.are.call'd.by.an.irresistible.call.to.depart,.You.shall.be.treated.to.the